Rear Chassis Completed

Okay, the jewelery metal glue seems to have worked. It appears to be a thick CA glue, so that may come in handy later.

With the rear skid plate in place, it was a simple matter of installing the rear drive assemblies -- drive cup, dogbones, and wheel axle. There's a little play in the linkage, so I may come back and stuff some foam into the drive cup so that there's constant pressure on the dogbones. This may not be an issue in the end, but it's something I'm going to keep my eye on.

With the grease in the diff, the action is very stiff but not completely locked. From what I've read, it's preferable to have the rear diff locked for drifting, but this is so stiff that I'm not very concerned about it. If I understand things correctly, the reason why you want the locked diff is the fact that you want to be able to lose traction. If the diff acts smoothly like in racing, then the wheels will be able to spin at different speeds (thus the name) which improves handling and traction, which ironically is the exact opposite of what you want in drifting. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone at some time will correct me in the way that can only happen as afforded by the anonymity provided by the Internet. That's okay, I've got my flame retardant protective gear on! :)

At any rate, the rear of the chassis is complete at this time. All we need now are the shocks, wheels, and a little bit of tuning. Tuning won't take any time at all since the rear has set toe-in and caster. The only thing I can adjust is camber, and it should be fairly easy to get the desired 0 degree setting.